{"id":123233,"date":"2025-10-16T16:09:02","date_gmt":"2025-10-16T16:09:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/chezaspin.com\/blog\/index.php\/2025\/10\/16\/coalition-presses-unep-over-opaque-used-clothing-project\/"},"modified":"2025-10-16T16:09:02","modified_gmt":"2025-10-16T16:09:02","slug":"coalition-presses-unep-over-opaque-used-clothing-project","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/chezaspin.com\/blog\/coalition-presses-unep-over-opaque-used-clothing-project\/","title":{"rendered":"Coalition presses UNEP over \u2018opaque\u2019 used clothing project"},"content":{"rendered":"

NAIROBI, Kenya, Oct 16 \u2014 A high-profile coalition of second-hand clothing industry leaders, policymakers, and academic experts from Africa, Asia, Europe, and North America has published an open letter to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), calling for greater transparency, data integrity, and inclusivity in its ongoing research on used clothing and textile circularity.<\/strong><\/p>\n

The coalition \u2014 led by the Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association (GUCDA) and including major trade bodies such as the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya, Recycling Europe (formerly EuRIC), and the Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association (SMART) \u2014 is urging UNEP to strengthen the credibility and openness of its Circularity and Used Textile Trade Project, which is funded by the European Commission.<\/p>\n

The letter comes ahead of the UN Environment Assembly (UNEA-7), to be hosted in Nairobi from 8\u201312 December 2025, where UNEP is expected to present its final global guidelines on used textiles.<\/p>\n

While commending UNEP\u2019s efforts to promote sustainable textile management, the signatories stress that the project\u2019s success depends on transparent methodologies, verifiable data, and meaningful engagement with affected stakeholders. <\/p>\n

The project aims to develop global standards to distinguish between tradeable used clothing and textile waste.<\/p>\n

However, the coalition raises concerns about what it terms an opaque consultation process \u2014 citing short feedback timelines, restricted access to draft materials, and presentation of unverified data. <\/p>\n

Stakeholders from Ghana, Kenya, and Pakistan report that key definitions, such as \u201cwaste,\u201d were applied without sufficient methodological disclosure, limiting independent scrutiny and undermining confidence in the process.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhat we have seen throughout this consultation process is not the objective inquiry that we expect from a UN programme,\u201d said Jeffren Boakye Abrokwah of GUCDA.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe Circularity and Used Textiles Trade Project could reshape national trade policies that affect the livelihoods of millions of people around the world. In Ghana, for example, UNEP\u2019s research partner is an NGO with a pre-existing waste advocacy campaign funded by the ultra-fast fashion industry. We raised legitimate concerns about national dialogues dominated by affiliated participants and leading questions that may have biased data collection.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWe are concerned that the project\u2019s findings may not fully reflect the realities of the global textile trade,\u201d said Alan Wheeler, CEO of the Textile Recycling Association (UK). <\/p>\n

\u201cUNEP\u2019s willingness to adopt unverified findings undermines its stated commitment to impartiality and erodes public trust. We urge UNEP to correct course, commission independent research, and reconsider its draft guidelines.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s a serious risk UNEP\u2019s work will be tainted unless it disengages from activist organisations beholden to fast fashion interests,\u201d warned Teresiah Wairimu Njenga, Chair of the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya. <\/p>\n

\u201cThe potential harm to communities in Kenya, and indeed worldwide, could be profound.\u201d<\/p>\n

The coalition\u2019s open letter calls on UNEP to: <\/p>\n

Suspend publication<\/strong> of the current draft guidelines until all underlying research is independently verified.<\/p>\n

Disclose all research methods, data, and definitions<\/strong> used in focus countries to enable full review and understanding.<\/p>\n

Include independent, local experts<\/strong> in the process to ensure findings are inclusive, transparent, and reflective of real-world conditions.<\/p>\n

The coalition noted that UNEP, with its global mandate to safeguard the environment, must ensure that its policy recommendations are grounded in robust evidence and remain free from bias or undue influence.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

NAIROBI, Kenya, Oct 16 \u2014 A high-profile coalition of second-hand clothing industry leaders, policymakers, and academic experts from Africa, Asia, Europe, and North America has published an open letter to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), calling for greater transparency, data integrity, and inclusivity in its ongoing research on used clothing and textile circularity. The […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":0,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-123233","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","entry"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack-related-posts":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/chezaspin.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/123233","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/chezaspin.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/chezaspin.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/chezaspin.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=123233"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/chezaspin.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/123233\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/chezaspin.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=123233"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/chezaspin.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=123233"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/chezaspin.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=123233"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}